Friday 29 March 2013

MEXICO CITY Frida Kahlo, Trotsky, Museo de Arte Popular

Fortunately, we did not have to wait in line to visit Frida Kahlo’s house, known as Casa Azul.   When we emerged 2 hours later, the queue stretched down the street.  Frida Kahlo, 1907-1947, had a tempestuous life, punctuated by much pain and passion.  She developed polio as a child and at 18 years she spent a year in bed after a bus accident.  She started painting as she lay in bed recovering from fractures to her spine, collarbone and ribs, a shattered pelvis, and shoulder and foot injuries. At 22 she married the famous Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, 20 years her senior. Their stormy, passionate relationship survived infidelities, the pressures of careers, divorce, remarriage, Frida's bi-sexual affairs, her poor health and her inability to have children. 
Frida's daytime bedroom with overhead mirror and death mask on bed
Garden near entrance to Casa Azul

Henry Ford Hospital 1932, painted after a miscarriage








 Vogue sponsored an exhibition  'Appearances Can Be Deceiving' including 300 items of clothing that have been locked away in cupboards and drawers for 58 years, since her death in 1954.

One of many corsets to support her spine

Underwear

 

 Frida displayed all her pain and physical aspects in her paintings.  Note the thinner right leg from polio in the left hand frame.
Coffee at Frida's house.  Note the layered capuccino with cinnamon on top

A few blocks away we visited Museo Casa de Trotsky 1939-40 which was interesting in its own right but also because he lived with Frida and Diego at Casa Azul before moving to his own house.  It was rumoured that Frida and Trotsky had an affair.  Trotsky was assassinated at his house despite installing steel doors to his bedroom and raising the external walls.
Looking to guardhouse on left, house on right
Trotsky enjoyed gardening and keeping rabbits
Office
Using the Metro, we went to Museo de Arte Popular in the afternoon.  It is devoted to folk art, much of it whimsical or concerned with festivals, such as skeletons related to the Day of the Dead, or Judas effigies burnt at Easter.  The exhibits were very interesting and often amusing.  There was a large souvenir shop with highly priced goods.

Devils


Many miniatures, including these skeleton settings
Coyote

Chameleon
Zoom in on the fantastic creatures


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